The Shapes of Cartier: 300 Vintage Watches and the Story of Cartier London

Few collections tell the story of a design house as clearly as this one. Over roughly 25 years, one private collector gathered more than 300 vintage Cartier watches. In 2026, Sotheby’s brought them to market as The Shapes of Cartier: A Dream Collection of Vintage Timepieces.

Why are vintage Cartier watches so collectible?

Because Cartier designs shapes, not just watches. For much of the twentieth century, the Maison ran independent workshops in Paris, London and New York, and each developed its own voice. Many pieces were made in tiny numbers. That combination of daring design and scarcity is exactly what collectors chase.

The London workshop and the Crash

This collection leans toward Cartier London, the most experimental of the three branches in the mid-twentieth century. Its most famous creation is the Crash, introduced in 1967: a melted, asymmetric case that looks as if time itself has bent. The 1987 example in this sale is believed to be one of only three made that year, complete with original accessories.

• Cartier Decagonal (1970–71): 18k yellow gold, one of five known. Estimate $60,000–$80,000.
• Tank Asymétrique (1992): white gold parallelogram case. Estimate $60,000–$80,000.
• Asymétrique with blue enamel (1973–74): rear-wound, one of five enamel examples known. Estimate $50,000–$80,000.

A melted case, a bent hour: the Crash proved a watch could be sculpture.

What it tells us about the market

Offering one collection across three continents is a statement of confidence in Cartier’s global pull. Shaped watches, once considered niche, now sit at the center of serious collecting, and Cartier is the name that defines the category.

Frequently asked questions

When was the Cartier Crash created?

The Crash was introduced by Cartier London in 1967.

How many watches were in The Shapes of Cartier?

More than 300, assembled over about 25 years, with a total estimate above $15 million.

Source: Forbes