Warm light, not ice. At Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong this month, De Beers put its weight behind natural diamonds in earthy, sunlit tones, while telling the trade that the long slump in prices may finally be easing.
At a glance
- The show: Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong, September 16–19, 2026.
- The concept: “Desert diamonds”, natural stones with warm, earthy colors, first shown in Shanghai in July.
- The machine: SynthDetect 2, which screens a full tray of diamonds in under five minutes; shipping from Q1 2027.
- The message: De Beers says supply and demand are moving towards equilibrium.
What are De Beers “Desert diamonds”?
They are natural diamonds whose warm, earthy hues come from nitrogen in the crystal and from plastic deformation, the slight distortion of the lattice under pressure deep underground, according to a De Beers Group release. The concept debuted in Shanghai in July and anchored the group’s stand in Hong Kong, which also featured display cases by the artist Xu Mingyu and a demonstration of Tracr, De Beers’ diamond traceability platform. Chief executive Al Cook attended alongside Paul Rowley, executive vice president of diamond trading.
Are diamond prices recovering?
De Beers thinks so, cautiously. “The natural diamond market is gradually stabilising. Supply and demand are moving towards equilibrium, while diamond prices are showing signs of recovery,” Rowley said in the release. The company says global natural production has fallen from around 170 million carats a year to about 100 million.
The wider trade is more measured. Rapaport’s September 24 market comment described sentiment around the September sight as cautious, with some goods in short supply, and noted that stones of two carats and above performed best at the Hong Kong show, while long cushion shapes were trading at a 20–25% premium to square cushions. For background on this year’s reset, read our report on De Beers’ 2026 price cuts.
What is SynthDetect 2?
It is De Beers’ new screening device for separating natural from synthetic diamonds. According to National Jeweler, it checks a full tray in under five minutes, about six times faster than its predecessor, and handles a ring in roughly six seconds and a bangle in about ten. It screens D-to-J colors from 0.001 to 10 carats, loose or mounted, returning each stone as natural, synthetic or “refer” for further testing. De Beers says around 99% of natural diamonds are correctly identified. Pricing is on request, with shipments from the first quarter of 2027.
The browns that the trade once sold at a discount are being recast as the warm side of nature.
A history of renaming the brown diamond
Brown is the most common diamond color in nature, and for most of the twentieth century it was treated as industrial or discount material. That began to change in the late 1980s, when Australia’s Argyle mine, which produced large volumes of brown stones, promoted them as “champagne” and “cognac” diamonds. De Beers’ “Desert” framing follows the same instinct, turning a color category into a story, now aimed squarely at Chinese consumers. “China has always been one of De Beers Group’s most important markets,” Al Cook said in the release.
For the Collector
- Value category: warm-toned natural diamonds have traditionally cost far less per carat than colorless or fancy-colored stones of the same size, which is part of their appeal.
- Grading still rules: ask for a laboratory report that states color and natural origin; marketing names are not grades.
- Screening is spreading: faster detectors like SynthDetect 2 make it easier for retailers to check mounted jewelry, which supports confidence in natural stones.
- Shape and size signals: Rapaport’s comments suggest larger stones and elongated cushions are currently the firmest part of the market.
Frequently asked questions
Are De Beers Desert diamonds natural?
Yes. De Beers describes them as natural diamonds whose warm colors come from nitrogen and plastic deformation.
Is now a good time to buy a diamond?
De Beers says prices show signs of recovery, while trade reports describe cautious sentiment. We don’t offer investment advice; compare graded stones and buy for the piece itself.
When will SynthDetect 2 be available?
According to National Jeweler, shipping begins in the first quarter of 2027, with pricing on request.
Sources: De Beers Group release via The Manila Times · Rapaport · National Jeweler
